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[游记攻略] 旖旎江南 醉在婺源

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发表于 2006-4-11 08:40:00 | 显示全部楼层 IP归属地: 中国重庆
站在婺源汽车站的门口,暖暖的阳光洒在身上。从没完没了的工作和羁绊中挣扎出来,独自一人上路的心情,就像刚刚冲破樊笼的鸟一样欢快--想上哪上哪,想怎么走就怎么走--就一个字,爽!!!终没能摆脱摩的长达十五分钟的不懈努力,以十五元的代价直奔第一站--月亮湾。<br>
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  这地方觉得也就一般吧,下车照了一张,上车到达李坑,一个确实不值得付出三十元的CBD,感觉其景色风格和周庄有点像,商业气氛更像。<br>
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  在村口山里人客店点了一个当地的特色菜-荷包红鲤鱼。从这儿起,只要开店的人家,都能在其店里或缸里,或池子里,或盆里找到几条直至几十条全身通红的鲤鱼。鱼当面剖开洗净,拿进厨房做着。正喝着啤酒流着口水,听到厨房里传出的大厨略带磁性的“披着羊皮的狼”,不由得再瞟了一下菜单,确认是25元一份,不是一两。一男一女两老板你一言我一语对着里面叫道:“**!你天天在这儿抡勺子,这辈子也出不了名。你应该去唱歌,当歌星发财!当年张学友就是当服务员的,刘德华早年好像也就在哪儿打点小杂,周润发是打渔的,现在都出息发大财了!”听见里面没有回话,还是一阵阵“披着羊皮的狼”,两人不由得摇头叹息:男怕入错行,女怕嫁错郎!<br>
  随着歌声的嘎然而止,鱼上来了,一尝也就一般吧。<br>
  饭后坐原摩的到达五里外的汪口俞氏宗祠,看不看都无所谓。<br>
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  照完后想让摩的带我去茅坦村,再到下晓起,他以种种理由推托-到茅坦村路况差,他想直接到下晓起。谈判不成,再一看天色还早,心一混走着去!从汪口走小路到茅坦村20里,才走出两三里,碰到一正在那儿施工开车的大哥,两言三语了解我的目的后,告诉我前面正在修景德镇经婺源到黄山的高速路,是当年江总回祖籍婺源江湾后开工的。前方不远处有一条才打通的隧道,从里面穿过去,可节省十里路。大喜,直奔前面的王蒙坦隧道。<br>
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  刚过完隧道就在大桥的右边桥下见到一个静谧而漂亮的小山村,初问路人都说叫聋子村-好特别的名字,后来才知道是龙宅村。<br>
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  野渡无人舟自横<br>
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  这是路上见到的施工队的标语,不知道是哪位秀才写的,但我敢肯定他用的洗发水一定是飘柔-比主席还多一百年。经过询问工人,这座桥本身的名字不叫贡品桥,也不是所连接两地的简称,那就只有一种解释了。真的很有创意。<br>
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  远眺茅坦村<br>
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  天黑前赶到下晓起,马上激情地投入创作中。<br>
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  这就是著名地连接上下晓起的石板路,一里长。<br>
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  上晓起<br>
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  听说附近还有个地方,叫晓容,九月份来的时候,各家各户都在院里楼上挂着一长串一长串的红辣椒,配着白墙黑瓦漂亮极了,这次无缘相见。<br>
  回到下晓起,找了家很不错的小院住下,园丁之家,菜做得也不错。整个店当晚就我一个客人,吃完饭坐在静静的农家小院中,树影婆娑,吴钩当空,月色如银,听着张信哲“白月光”干净的嗓音,才知道什么叫浪漫得让人心慌。狠狠地想了会儿家里辛勤的老婆婆儿和very卡哇依的小美女,睡意渐渐生长。。。。<br>
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  早上醒来一看,坏了,天都大亮了,要误行程了。再一看手机,六点十分。婺源的太阳出来得那是相当的早啊!<br>
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  向主人道过谢,直奔十五里外看油菜花的圣地-江岭。途中见一别院,透过树梢,圆拱门很别致。<br>
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  路上风景<br>
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  到达江岭<br>
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  四天后在车上碰见一新疆女子,说她在两天前到江岭就没见到油菜花了,还好我运气不坏。看完油菜花,步行30里,经段莘水库到庆源古村。<br>
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  庆源古村中央上千年的银杏树<br>
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  穿过村庄,顺溪而下,一株曾被雷击的古松,平地兀起,残躯不倒,很悲壮。<br>
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  网上有一段话是一哥们这样形容这座桥的(绝对没找错):一座雄伟的古石拱桥,古藤缠身,桥下瀑布飞溅而出,跌落在光滑而陡峭的岩面上,形成如网支流,十分壮观。<br>
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  在知名的庆源古宅客栈里吃饭,味道一般肉偏肥。听后来遇到的人讲,133号客栈菜很不错。<br>
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  吃过中饭,再次上路下到段莘水库,去28里外的官坑。一路上段莘水库风景确实不错,可惜偶学艺不精,准确地说是无师自不通,照得一塌糊涂。虽然在烈日下走得汗如浆出,疲惫不堪,但看到近在眼前的官坑村时,还是忍不住用激动而微微颤抖的嗓音吼了一段儿“敖包相会”。<br>
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  官坑村中生长了好像是四百多年的月月桂,明朝的,每个月都开花。<br>
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  桂美饭店住下,饭菜一般,主人热情,还特地用洗衣粉把我“GORE-TEX”的登山鞋刷了个遍,并试图用火烤干!汗!坐在二楼房间自带的阳台上,听着楼下的溪水声,认真阅读了一下1994年8月的《读者》。不在于看的什么,看的是心情。<br>
  次日早起,步行15里翻山到达岭脚村。<br>
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  村头的大樟树<br>
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  从岭脚到虹关5里路,谢绝热情友好的摩的司机,步行前往,途中饱览各小村秀色。<br>
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 楼主| 发表于 2006-4-11 08:41:00 | 显示全部楼层 IP归属地: 中国重庆
虹关有1400年历史的古樟,号称"江南第一樟"<br>
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<br>浙源的白塔<br><br>
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<br>这张PP位于坑口,当天已步行45里,昨天体力也消耗较大,决定坐摩的上山,这也是我这一次最后悔的一个决定--从坑口上山到理坑三十里,全公路,旁边就是溪水和山花,风景极佳,凉爽的清风中步行上山本来极爽,我却选择了坐车--后悔!<br>
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  理坑大门处沐浴的牛<br>
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  经过乡政府那条街时,发现有好多在上面写生的美院的学生,有的还骑着自行车。马上寻了一下,立马租到一辆自行车,12元一天,骑着车赶紧去找省级文物保护单位-云溪别墅,准备下榻。<br>
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  迈进别墅大门,确实和心中预想的规模有较大差距,但是那种古朴雅致、闲静悠然的氛围一下子就吸引了我-这就是我想到的地方-当即决定明天在这儿住一天。小院客堂躺椅上已有两口子在和老板聊天,也是住客。聊了两句,他们是从江苏过来的。已在这儿住了两三天了。<br>
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  放下包,才洗了把脸,空中传来隐隐雷声,雨中欣赏刚才上山的路岂不正好?给老板余叔打声招呼就要冲出去,余叔叫着:要下雨了!“我就是去淋雨的!”<br>
  豆大的雨点把路上行人全赶进了屋里,可惜只下了两三分钟,不过骑着自行车缓行于溪边的感觉依然让人兴致浓浓。<br>
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  停车接点山泉水解渴<br>
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  在喝水的时候,突然嗅到一阵阵若有若无、似浓似淡的幽香。在空灵的山谷中四下寻觅,只看见红红的杜娟花,再找不到别的什么花了。在你想找的时候找不到,正想离开却又是一段隐隐地飘来。巨音希声,大象无形。突然觉得女人与花的至高品质都是像这样醉人于无影吧。<br>
  回到云溪别墅,又看到来自福州的美女青、来自宁波的帅哥虹(经对其第二性征目测及本人自述,确系一标准帅哥,只不过名字较柔而已)和来自上海的另外两位帅哥。一路走来,因一人吃饭点菜不可能点得太多,结果单身一人的青也有此感,一拍即合,两人晚上一起点菜吃饭。青不吃牛羊鱼肉,鸡肉也不爱吃,偏爱吃素。而我是无肉不欢,在接下来的几天AA制里,我就觉得特别不好意思。吃过晚饭,在客堂里几个人聊着天,直至夜深散去,各回房间休息。<br>
  早上起来,虹和两个上海GG已经走了。坐在负离子特高的小院喝过一杯热咖啡,神清气爽,和青上路去看余叔昨晚所说的王字-就是在一条小溪里,六段从两侧岩壁伸入溪流中央的石头,组合成一个王字。经过当地老表指点,现在水太大,王字已不明显了。马上转往篁村、溪头看余叔所说的五级瀑布。山谷中风景真的很漂亮。<br>
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  正沉浸在美景当中,突然看到余叔出现在瀑布的上面向我们大声招呼,惊喜之下爬上第二级瀑布,江苏的两位也在。原来余叔带他们也上来了。另外还有四个住在当地的小女孩也进谷来玩。一行九人向第三级瀑布进发时,偶一不小心,滑进水中。刚才就想扑进潭中畅游的愿望这么快就实现了!<br>
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  爬到了瀑布的侧面<br>
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  回到住处,吃过香喷喷的鸡架炖笋,休息片刻,前往理坑村中创作。<br>
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  祠堂,正中阁楼上现放寿材用。<br>
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  又是一个难忘的乡村之夜。月笼山村,烟罩庭院。微醺之中,独自一人慵懒地睡在躺椅上,静静地听着“the color of the night”。美景在前,美酒在手,真真切切地感受到时间的停滞,停滞所带来的真正的生活。真的就想这样一直下去,让工作只是业余爱好。但有这样的停滞,这样不真实的梦境,那怕就这样片刻,我也已经拥有人生中一个太美的中点,应该知足了。<br>
  新的一天,和青计划按余叔所指点的小路,翻山穿越到大樟山。在离开这个小院,告别余叔的时候,突然明白:放弃和遗憾也是一种美,它能让存忆中的美更加隽永。<br>
  
发表于 2006-4-11 09:10:00 | 显示全部楼层 IP归属地: 中国重庆
拒黄GG,好久一个人去的哦,PP还可以哦
发表于 2006-4-11 17:11:00 | 显示全部楼层 IP归属地: 中国重庆
拒黄放单线所,这地方好向不错,哪正走起.
发表于 2006-4-11 18:53:00 | 显示全部楼层 IP归属地: 中国重庆
早就听说婺源风景好,以前耳闻,现在目睹了,确实不错,比较幽静的山间小村庄。。
发表于 2006-4-11 19:49:00 | 显示全部楼层 IP归属地: 中国重庆
攻略发起<br>
<br>
<br>
一个人去,有意思!!!<br>
<br>
<br>
给黄哥顶起
发表于 2006-4-11 20:28:00 | 显示全部楼层 IP归属地: 中国重庆
不错在那个方向还没搞懂
发表于 2006-4-11 21:06:00 | 显示全部楼层 IP归属地: 中国北京
大师的文章看不全啊.都是关键的精华部分.啷个搞起的也?
发表于 2006-4-12 00:37:00 | 显示全部楼层 IP归属地: 中国重庆
他带着愿望,走进美丽的地方,走进春天的花园。他粘着花香,提着丰硕成果,回到了初梦的家乡!放松了,神怡了,回来了!美丽还永远在记意中回荡!爽死了
3414 该用户已被删除
发表于 2006-4-12 06:33:00 | 显示全部楼层 IP归属地: 中国重庆
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